![]() Remember my original problem 'low coolant light coming on only after reaching normal operating temperature' as shown on the gauge. It has its own gauge, the temperature gauge to inform you of coolant temperatures. fdryer, There must be some sort of correlation within the circuitry. The coolant temperature sensor is mounted on the cylinder head to monitor coolant temps in order to let the pcm know what air/fuel mixtures to use. The coolant temperature sensor is a wholly different animal. I have a photo of a tool I made to clean the switch - Ill post when located. You can clean the switch and may also consider refreshing the Dex-Cool. Theres a switch in bottom of reservoir that tends to stick with aged coolant. The level sensor does only one job - to inform you of low coolant in the container. Re: Low coolant light on but level is fine. i was amazed at all the hard gunk that came out. ![]() i removed the coolant tank, filled it up with water and soap and shook it for a good long time. well my car started to do this so i started reading on possible ways to fix it. the low coolant level and temp light flashing at the same time. Those failures are usually due to a total lack of coolant maintenance allowing crud to build up to stop the float mechanism from operating or failure altogether after years of reliable service. after doing some reading i realized this is somewhat of a common problem. After driving quite a bit running errands around town, light came on again. I checked coolant level in the overflow and it was down almost 2 inches. I'm sure the designers chose wisely on the type of sensor for reliability because millions of level sensors are in almost every vehicle against a very small percentage of failures. Two days ago, low coolant light came on (it has never come on before). By adding this level sensor we get to know if a coolant leak occurs before over heating occurs. The low coolant sensor was put there as the only way to alert you of coolant level otherwise a leak will do what it always did in the past without a coolant level sensor coolant leaks out and the engine over heats. It must be filled up to or just above the big seam in the middle of the reservoir to for the coolant level sensor to close.I don't know where you conclude a temperature gauge/low coolant sensor relationship but they aren't related at all. In this episode, I take the 'new to me' Saturn Astra and top off the coolant to get rid of the Coolant Level message. Rinse away any excess coolant from the engine and the engine compartment. Obviously, make sure enough coolant is in the reservoir. Run the engine at 2,000-2,500 RPM for 3 minutes. The coolant level sensor is closed (0 resistance) when the coolant reservoir is sufficiently filled and open (infinite resistance) when the coolant level is low. You could also perform a resistance test on the coolant level sensor. Likewise, you should also see 12VDC if you probe the yellow/black stripe wire and a +12V source such as the jump start post on the UHFB with the engine running. I found recently that you can actually direct a solid stream from the hose into the reservoir section with the float fairly good. This should yield a reading of at least 12VDC. You can clean out the reservoir by draining coolant from the engine, then either removing the reservoir or blasting it out good in place with some cleaner. ![]() A magnetic float shaped like a donut triggers a reed valve inside the hollow tube to detect float position when coolant level drops below minimum. The coolant light is most likely the low coolant level sensor in the coolant container. If you don't get anything, try probing the pink/black stripe and a good ground to bypass the BCM. The coolant light is not associated with the coolant sensor when theres a different sensor for this purpose. You should get a reading at or above 12VDC (closer to 14VDC with the engine running). How are you measuring the voltage? Are you just probing the two wires at the coolant level sensor? If so, first make sure the key is in the RUN position and try again. It is only hot when the POWERTRAIN relay (slot 29 in UHFB) is closed which should occur whenever the key is in the RUN position. The 15A EMISS fuse is #10 in the underhood fuse block and also provides power to the oxygen sensor both heaters, MAF sensor, and canister purge solenoid. Shorting the connector sends 12v to the bcm to leave the coolant light off, an open circuit turns on the indicator or lack of 12v sent to the bcm. The body control module uses sensors before turning on indicators. I'm going by '05 wiring and presume the low coolant sensor circuit remains the same with the following remarks the pink/black stripe wire has 12 volts from a 15 amp EMISS fuse with the yellow/black stripe wire returning to the bcm (ground).
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